Cosmetics and the Science of Beautiful Skin

Overview: Cosmeceuticals go beyond ordinary cosmetics as they provide a physiological benefit in addition to external aesthetic attributes. This is particularly applicable to skin. A myriad of actives are and have been developed to treat maladies from photo aged skin to cellulite. However there is need for delivery systems which target the layer/s of skin to provide bioavailability at the site required to stimulate physiological efficacy. The intrinsic properties of these actives must remain intact and be chemically stable before and after delivery. Skin is the largest organ in the body and is the first line of defense against external environmental effects i.e. sunlight, free radicals and environmental allergens. As a result penetration of the stratum corneum, or outer layer of skin is a torturous pathway leading to the lower levels consisting of the epidermis and dermis. 

Cosmetic scientists have developed a few general guidelines for penetration however future trends in this area will require new and more sophisticated systems to insure the penetration is rapid and effective. Considerable efforts are also required for control of the degree of penetration in lieu of toxicity concerns. Penetration beyond or below the sebaceous or fatty glands is to say the least undesireable.Therefore considerable testing has to be conducted to determine the amount/s delivered to each of the skin layers. This is conducted via a specific procedure which will be discussed in some detail. At this point or before a review of skin physiology will be presented as a review. In many cases, where new actives are designed for topical use, an analytical method must be developed in order to ascertain the foregoing. This usually but not always involves HPLC *HIGH PRESSURE LIQUID CHROMATOGRAPHY). 

Two main systems are discussed which include polymer encapsulation and vesicle encapsulation together with their sub-categories respectively. Nonionic surfactants and HLB as they pertain to vesicle formation will be presented A discussion of the foregoing various delivery systems will be offered and the pros and cons of each type presented. This will involve information leading to proper choice of solvents excipients and surfactants together with direction toward custom blending the latter leading to proper choices with chemistry of active and the foregoing taken into consideration. The delivery systems must in addition to providing efficacy be cost effective. And provide ease of preparation and storage considerations for scale up must be considered. The mechanism of active release into or onto skin is also shown as the later relates to skin flux and thermodynanamics. 

Hydrolytic stability of certain actives such retinoids, currently employed in skin anti-aging products will be discussed in relation to protective effects via encapsulation. 

Why should you attend: Cosmeceuticals are a cosmetic/otc hybrid that will become more prominent in the marketplace. The near future product will contain pre formulated biomolecules in custom made delivery systems to support efficacy and market claims. This is evolving into a highly specialized field. Cosmetic product development is both an art and a science. To this effect Cosmecueticals will require more knowledge of both, when viewed in the light of bioavailability. An understanding of both the art of product and substrate aesthetics, together with the science of efficacious delivery systems required to provide physiological functions deep within skin are required. Since it is likely that a myriad of new delivery systems will continue to grow in leaps and bounds for the foreseeable future the development process will be forced to undergo changes, some of which have already began.

A sound understanding of the present state of the art and science will provide a baseline to build on going forward as many of the delivery modules will lead a new process of preformulation prior to final product formulation. Scientists formulators and marketing will need to understand which module to choose and why in order to translate the technology into a successful product/s. Testing procedures for depth of penetration will become more prominent not only to hit the desired target but also to determine the degree of toxicity involved regarding penetration depth and avoidance of unwanted transepidermal active delivery. Proper testing procedures will be crucial to success as improper test design can lead to uncertainty together with considerable costs. Toxicologists, clinical people and regulatory will be required to interface with development on a much broader scale.

Areas Covered in the Session:

• What are cosmeceuticals and how are they defined and regulated?
• Bioavailability in relation to skin layers stratum corneum epidermis and dermis
• Botox in a bottle an example of a protein induced physiological response
• General rules for skin penetration
• vesicles as a pathway for active delivery
• types of polymer encapsulation active delivery and stability
• Surfactant based vesicles and cost effective delivery systems defined and compared
• preformulation considerations for active loading in vesicles surfactant HLB-solvents-excipients
• Physiochemical parameters and drug release from surfactant based vesicles
• How deep to go Tape stripping and Franz cell testing Microscopy/ confocal laser scanning microscopy
• Some guidelines for choosing the proper vesicle based on type and chemistry of active ingredient
• Summary and Conclusions

Who Will Benefit:

• Scientists Managers
• Formulators
• Product Directors
• Marketing and Sales Personnel
• Dermatologists